Nick's 21st Birthday, Better Late Than Never - January 12, 2012

I must say, I've been a bit remiss about posting since I got to India.  It's not
that I haven't been busy...and I HAVE been taking pictures...but I am having
so much fun, I find myself, at 2AM, eyeing the computer, then looking
longingly at my bed.  Somehow, bed wins out.  Then, lathered with Odomos
cream to fend off the attacking swarms of mosquitoes, with the ceiling
fan swirling, I cover myself with a blanket and sleep happily until Kamlah
wakes me with a cup of fragrant chai in the morning.

I cannot believe the number of parties that take place around here!  Of
course, one would expect them with Christmas and New Year's but, then
there was the January 1st First Communion round of parties.  That is a
really big deal here in India, akin to a wedding celebration, almost.  I'll
have to post some of those pictures as well.  Also, there WAS a wedding
here in the compound...on December 28th.  And, next, on January 6th, was
my nephew ( well, for all practical purposes, he is my nephew - I've
dubbed him such and he has made me his Aunty ), Nick's, 21st
birthday.  When I asked Nick what he would like for this special
occasion, he asked for me to write him a poem.  He inherited my Canon
digital camera when I bought my new Canon G12 so he thought that
was more than sufficient.

So a poem he got and I told him it would appear on my blog...sweet
kids here, they think my blog is a big deal.

For Nick, On His 21st Birthday

From His American Aunty

I haven't spent much time with you,

I've lived so far away,

But I can't say how much it means,

To share your very special day.

I only saw you once before,

You were cute as you could be,

The sweetest little seven year old,

Having fun and running free.

I must say, you sure have changed,

You are quite the man,

Most handsome, and so nice to me,

Since my visit here began,

I have had such fun with you,

And it's such a thrill to me,

Every time I see you smile,

And say to me, "Aunty" .

You've made me feel so welcome,

As have your entourage of friends,

That's part of why I'll feel so sad,

When my special visit ends.

I know your folks are proud of you,

As you turn twenty-one,

I know you'll be a great success,

But don't forget to have some fun.

With much love, Nick, and all good wishes for the future.

Aunty Carmen

Of course, his mom and dad, my beloved friends, Ode and Lorna Santos

threw him an incredible party, with aunts and uncles contributing all sorts of 

great food for the event.  There was a DJ and the party was in full force 

until Mumbai's finest arrived about 2AM to tell us to shut the music down.  

We did tone it down a bit but kept on dancing for a couple hours more.

Beautiful Mumbai moon

The outdoor contingent

Usually, some finds a log to burn outdoors...it helps to keep the mosquitoes 

away and adds a little warmth for the cooler late night temperatures.

Family and neighbors, Vera Pereira and Lulu Santos

Me and my other sweet nephew, Jake Santos

Party animals

Proud mom, Lorna Santos, and Nick's true aunt, Sonia Santos

This is my beloved friend, Ode Santos, who I met on my first Royal 

Caribbean cruise, the Monarch of the Seas, on April 16, 1995, right after 

we sailed out San Juan.  He was the Champagne Bar bartender and,

during that seven day cruise, I spent a great deal of time there.  He was the

first Indian I ever met, really, and we became instant friends.  Through him,

I met so many other Indian crew and that was the start of my relationship 

with the country and so many people.  In February 1997, I spent ten days

in Mumbai as the guest of Santos and his wife, Lorna, and I am back with

them this visit, and with their boys, Nick and Jake.

Chef Kumar, who actually has been a chef for Royal Caribbean and

other cruise lines, whipped up several fabulous batches of pasta for

Nick's birthday party

This is me with Noel Pinto.  He parked my walker and appointed himself my champion

for the whole evening.  Every time I got up, he would be at my side to escort me.  If I

needed a drink ( it was Old Monk Spiced Rum for me all evening ), he would pour it

And he was a terrific dance partner!  No matter that Noel is about forty years younger

than me!!!.  

Vera Pereira

This is me, minus makeup.  I was racing out in the morning, 

late, and I had no time for it.  I don't think I've been out in public,

minus my eyeshadow, in 20 years.

It was really a great party.  All of Nick's friends are terrific and so much fun. 

The adults always join in the dancing, too, partly, I think, because the music is

something that everyone can enjoy - less toxic than what I often hear at home...

not a lot of ramp with profanity, insanity, or depravity.

Mumbai Thoughts and Scenes - December 16, 2011

Well, it is amazing at how fast time is flying here in India. I am well into my
second week already and I am a bit behind on my list of things I want to
accomplish. However, I guess I really don't need a fixed agenda. My main
purpose in being here is to reconnect with Indian friends that are special to
me and I have certainly been working on that. I had a really wonderful
surprise, shortly after I got to Mumbai, when a Royal Caribbean friend, I
hadn't seen in almost a decade, with business in Mumbai, from his home
in another part of India, came over to see me. I cannot believe I didn't get
a picture!

I've been so warmly greeted by folks I met in this village fourteen years ago
when I spent a week before heading on to Bangkok and a southeast Asian
cruise. I have been moved to tears, really. There is so much laughter and
talk as people stop by after work and dinner and we sit up late into the
night. Conversation goes back and forth from English into Hindi ( sometimes,
folks forget I am limited by not speaking any of the other Indian languages ) -
I just smile and feel so happy, just to be with everyone.

For all practical purposes, by American standards, life seems difficult here.
My friend, Lorna, won't let me do a thing which, I'm sure, adds to her work
load. She is up at 7AM, preparing chai, seeing her two sons off, one to work
for Jet India, the other to school. Though I normally don't eat breakfast,
she won't head to work herself without leaving something for me for
breakfast, no ifs, ands or buts. She also leaves something prepared for
lunch. If I ate all she fixed, my pre-trip fifteen pound weight loss would be
all for naught.

There is a servant lady that comes in morning and night to do major cleaning
and to wash clothes ( by hand ) and hang them on the terrace upstairs.

My friend, Santos, who is F & B manager at a small hotel not far from home,
normally works the evening shift and leaves about 1PM, returning by midnight.
Food is ready and waiting when he arrives. He and the oldest boy, Nick,
travel by motorbike. There is no car. Thankfully, Mumbai passed a helmet
law but, as far as I can see, most of the population chooses to ignore it.

Traffic here is terrifying. Nothing in the U.S., in my opinion, even the likes of
Los Angeles or New York, can compare. Mumbai doesn't seem to know
what traffic lanes are. People don't signal at all and five rows of traffic try to
occupy one lane, especially fearful if you are riding in an open auto rickshaw.

There are so many religions and many holidays to celebrate all of them. For
the most part, it seems that there is religious tolerance and people get along
quite well. I hear there is a great deal of corruption ( from my friends who are
Indian ) and, often, bribery is uitlized to get things done ( in business, govern-
ment, etc ). Yet, it is such an enchanting country, where such honor is given
to one's elders, Bollywood outdoes Hollywood in sheer number of films
produced and the colors of saris and beautiful attire rival that of the glories
of nature.

I'm afraid my time here will go much too fast and I will shed many tears as I
say goodbye to India. I can't bear to think about it now.

Out shopping with my "nephews", Nick and Jake Santos

There auto rickshaws, which are open on each side, are one of the main means 

of transport.  They get so close to each other, you can reach out and touch the

people in the one next to you.  I always feel like I should have on a helmet and

pads when I'm riding in them!!!

This might be a better way to go...above the traffic a bit!

Here's a better side view of the auto rickshaw.

The little girl in yellow, oblivious of traffic, was doing a happy dance in the street

People carry such heavy loads

Home in Sahar Village, near the international airport, Mumbai

The sky seen through lazy palm fronds

Coconuts and curry sandwiches....yummy.

Spraying for mosquitoes is a necessary evil.

While 85 - 90% of malaria fatalities occur in sub-Saharan Africa, it is endemic

in a broad band around the equator.  Sadly, one million deaths occur annually. 

I was quick to follow CDC guidelines for anti-malaria drugs, which I began a

week before departure and will continue for a month after I return home.  My

Indian friends sleep under mosquito nets and CDC recommends the ones that

are pretreated with an insecticide.  Regardless, I looked like I had the measles

after the first few days until my friend bought, Odomos, a nicely rose 

scented mosquito repellant.

Apartment building along the road into downtown Mumbai

Some things are the same the world over!

Difficult decisions

Fondue!

Paradise

Out to see the Gateway of India

City of Lights

The Bandra-Worli Sea Link

Though it presented major engineering challenges, the Bandra-Worli Sea Link.

opened all eight lanes of its spans in March of 2010.  It links Bandra and the

western suburbs of Mumbai with Worli, curtting that travel time from about

an hour to fifteen minutes.  

Whirling by the lights of the city

Psychedelic lights of a Victoria carriage near the Gateway of India

The day of the Victoria carriage in Mumbai is drawing to a close, after 130 

years. Animal rights activists have deplored the conditions of the facilities 

where horses are stabled and legislation has been passed to eliminate this 

symbol of Mumbai.Tourists will have to find some other way to see the area 

around the Gateway

The lunar eclipse from the harbor at the Gateway of India

Some of my wonderful Indian family with the Gateway of India in the background

The Gateway of India, an example of  both Hindu and Muslim architecture,

was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and and Queen Mary

to Bombay, in December 1911. It seems fitting that the last British troops

leaving India exited through this gateway, as well - in a ceremony on

on February 28, 1948.

The Taj Palace Hotel at the Harbor in Mumbai has received many famous

guest including the Beatles and the Obamas.  It was the scene of the 2008

terrorist attacks that killed at least 167 people.

Having a drink at the Harbor Bar in the Taj Palace

With sisters, Lorna Santos and Alma D'Souza, at the Taj Harbor Bar

Good things to eat